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With the rains we have had recently on the Island, plants that burned in the summer fires are now recovering rapidly. The first to show green in an otherwise charred black landscape were the saw palmettos which are also the dominant undergrowth shrubs on Cumberland. Any way you look at it, the palmetto plant plays a major roll in our sub-tropical forest. The thick cover from their broad leaves provides shelter for many species of animals. The plant itself collects and concentrates calcium that is redistributed into the shallow layers of soil when leaves die or burn, enriching the ground around it. Under certain conditions, palmettos can create a very hot, fast moving fire that scorches other plants but also helps to reduce parasites like bark beetles that attack pine trees. The hearty saw palmetto seems to thrive in areas that burn frequently and can grow in either shaded forest or open, full sunlit habitats.
In the early summer, palmettos will sometimes bloom with sweet smelling flowers that are sought after by beekeepers for the high quality honey they produce. After the flowers are gone, berries start to form in their place and are usually ripe by late summer or early fall. This is a nutrient rich food source for animals like deer, wild turkeys and raccoons. The early native Americans ate them too, but the sweet fruit has a very strong musky flavor so human consumption is based on an acquired taste. The heart of the palmetto plant where new leaves are formed was also harvested as a food source by early inhabitants of this region. I have always been amazed at how resilient, yet useful saw palmettos are while Cumberland Island supports many acres of them.
I’m always glad to see September because it’s not long until the cooler days of autumn will follow. This month of transition can have both hot humid days punctuated by mildly warm days depending on the unsettled weather typical of this time of year. September is a time when noticeable changes start to happen on and around Cumberland. Some of the highest tides of the year naturally occur during this month. If linked to a tropical storm; lower parts of the fore dunes can be breached, flooding the inter-dune meadows, impacting some of the less salt tolerant plants that grow there.
Recent storm tides have already cut deeply into the dunes destroying most of the sea turtle nests this season. However, it’s during these high water events that one particular dune plant is recognized for its beach stabilizing value. Salt tolerant Sea Oats more than any other plant or man made structure can hold a shoreline together. The long root system of this plant spreads out like a fine net under the sand holding it in place Sea oats also have five to six foot tall leaves and stalks that slow the wind flow over the surface of the dunes which also helps to slow the movement of sand. Probably the single most important plants on Cumberland are the sea oats because of this critical service they provide along with the beauty of the plant itself. This is the time of year when sea oats change color from green to golden brown. It is believed early explorers referred to Georgia’s barrier Islands as “The Golden Isles” after observing the seasonal color change of sea oats along the wild shorelines.
Today, any place where the land meets the sea, a degree of wildness still exist as these two systems struggle to reach a natural equilibrium. In the process, shorelines are constantly on the move either building or washing away. This of course, is one of many reasons why coastal development is such a risky business. A number of people who live on beach front properties are starting to realize now they may lose the battle against the sea.
Fortunately most of Georgia’s shorelines remain undeveloped. Nearly all of this state’s barrier islands were too far from shore to build bridges for access in the earlier years which restricted development. By the time the will, technology and money came along to build bridges and develop the islands, either the State or Federal governments had already acquired and preserved these beautiful and highly functional natural areas. Cumberland is the best example of this with over seventeen miles of undeveloped shoreline, that will never be developed due to protection from the National Park Service and some of the private owners as well.
Visitors to Cumberland are always amazed to see so many miles of beach without a building in front of it as they comment on the natural beauty of the island; soon an awareness sets in as people realize how much of the southeast coast has been altered by heavy development.
September is a good time to study the dynamics of how natural shorelines work and to reflect on how important it is to preserve them.
We are entering into a time of year when tropical weather systems become more of a threat to our coastal areas. Tropical Storm Fay has already touched Cumberland leaving a large accumulation of downed tree limbs and other vegetation. The storm also brought to shore one of the largest deposits of seashells found on the beach in recent years. Shell collecting opportunities among the few Island visitors has been more than they could have hoped for; with many different types of shells covering some parts of the beach. Rain from the storm also exposed fossilized bones and sharks teeth along the main road on Cumberland where road improvements are being made by the Park Service. The much needed rain has also triggered an explosion of new plant growth on the north end of the Island that burned from a forest fire just two months ago. September is usually the wettest month on Cumberland which brings relief from the normally hot days, but it is also the peak of the hurricane season so like other people who live on the coast we have to keep close tabs on the weather.
In the meantime though, other natural processes occurring during this unsettled time of year are worth mentioning. Some early migrations of birds are either arriving for the winter of passing through the Island now. Migrants such as Ruddy turnstones, Oyster catchers and Tree swallows are already here, while laughing gulls and royal terns that have been in the area all summer are changing into their winter plumage. In the forest, the loud raucous breeding calls of the annual cicadas add a sense of urgency to the late summer season as well. The racket created by these large fly looking insects may reach one hundred decibels and can hardly go unnoticed by anyone visiting Cumberland.
A few Islanders now are on the lookout for the wild muscadine grapes that become ripe during this season. Muscadines have a sweet rich flavor and are a delicacy in our southern woodlands. Many of the lower growing, easily accessible vines are located close to the beach behind the main dune area. However, tropical storm Fay has significantly damaged these plants with blowing sand and saltwater, reducing the number of grapes available for both human and wildlife consumption.
Life by the sea can be harsh, particularly this time of year as tropical weather systems pass through the area; but it’s an interesting time to be on the Island and witness the urgency of this season.
